Leave your modesty at the door but don't forget your towel!
On a recent trip to Kobe, we stayed at the fabulous Candeo Hotel. For about ¥12000 we got a great deal on Agoda and needless to say, I wasn't expecting much but wow, was I impressed! It's a new hotel and as we walked in, the elevators dimmed and I ogled at the origami gold art on the wall. We arrived at the 13th floor to check in, the doors opened and the floor to ceiling windows showcased the mountains I used to live close to and suddenly I became a but emotional. I moved to Kobe in 2009-2014 and a lot of friends had left but the memories remained. It was a different Kobe than that I knew and I was so excited to experience it with Ren.
The deal we chose was that we would be allocated any room that was available but they accommodated our request to have a large bed so that we could share with Ren. Everything in the room was tastefully decorated and after a bit of Tetris, there was enough space for Ren to crawl around and let off some steam.
After a long afternoon of walking around and a late dinner, we put Ren to sleep and I decided to go and onsen at about 10PM. Taking my hotel pj's with me, I crept out the room and made my way to the 14th floor.
I touched my room-card on the sensor to the ladies entrance and as I took off my shoes I was hoping for an empty change room. I saw one pair of shoes in the genkan, and breathed a sigh of relief and stepped into the change room and it was PACKED! By nature, Japanese people are quiet. If you have ever been in Japan and have taken a train, elevator, plane or any communal space, you will realise how eerily quiet it is. So there I was, as the only foreigner in a sea of wet and dry Japanese nakedness scanning for an open locker. I "sumimasened" my way through and found one right by the entrance to the onsen - which leaves no room for modesty as there are always ladies entering and leaving. I got undressed as quickly as I could, folded everything in my locker and took my key out of the lock. I turned around and realised that I hadn't brought a towel with and everyone had brought a hand towel with them from their rooms! Many onsens don't allow normal size towels into the onsen, but they have hand-towels that you can use. The purpose of the hand-towel is to hold it in front of you as you move through the onsen - if you're feeling shy. So there I was, in all my glory, looking like a dear in headlights. I relented and got dressed and went back downstairs to get my towel, the full-size and modesty one.
Back through the same process, with much more fake confidence, the palava was worth it. As I sat outside feeling the cool autumn air blow over the hot water and watching the steam rise towards the full moon, I opened my eyes and smiled.
ONSEN'ING FOR DUMMIES (like me):
Enter the correct gender onsen
Take off shoes and leave them in the allocated area (locker or entrance)
Find a locker furthest away from the entrance to the onsen. Low traffic = more stealth.
Do not lock eyes with anyone. Do not stare at their bits and pieces. Do not smile. You thought this was a happy occasion?
Remove your clothes in front of your locker. If you drop something, bend at the knees. Leave everything in your locker including your large towel. Phones are DA-ME! (ie. not ok)
Keep your modesty towel slung over your should like a continental soldier, or cover your front.
Sit down at a wash stall and wash yourself from head to toe. Use the bucket to splash your area after use. You can wet your towel here to cool yourself down.
Wade into the water and then sit down. Say at-sui ne...ki-mo-chiiiiii. Still no eye contact. You can fold your towel and put it on your head...when in Rome!
Close your eyes and see how long you last before you start wondering if you're starting to boil all while enjoying the fresh air - if outdoors. You are allowed to stand up, or sit on the edge for a few seconds to cool down.
Get up S L O W L Y. If you have been in the water for a long time, it might hit you hard. If so, go for a cool rinse-off.
Exit onsen to change room.
Drink water!!!
Use all of the toiletries. The ear buds, the hair brushes, the scales, the acupressure foot-thing.
Get dressed. Still no bending without your knees.
Throw towel in allocated box.
Exit.
Exhale.
Sleep.
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